Watching reining horses compete is awe-inspiring due to their precise patterns and slides, but nothing compares to the remarkable speed at which they execute their lightning-fast spins. The primary objectives in performing the spin include maintaining speed, accuracy, and ensuring that the horse’s hind foot remains fixated as it rotates around it. However, in order to train a horse to excel in these maneuvers, it is imperative to begin with foundational skills.
According to Dick Pieper, an inductee of the National Reining Horse Association Hall of Fame and a world champion in reining and cutting, everything starts with the basics when it comes to training a horse, regardless of the specific task.
Pieper’s program consists of three fundamentals: lateral flexion, simple collection, and the two-track movement. According to him, anyone can achieve success if they focus on mastering these three fundamentals. The main objective of establishing these basics is to ensure that every horse, regardless of whether it is used for recreational trail riding or reining, becomes enjoyable, useful, and safe. These fundamentals are suitable for both young colts in training and older saddle horses that may be unresponsive or lack enthusiasm.
Reining Horse Spin: Lateral Flexion
First, ride two-handed with a loose rein in a large circle, making sure to maintain a consistent size. In order to request basic lateral flexion while circling to the left, shift your weight onto your right hip. This will result in your right leg being closer to the horse’s ribcage and your left leg moving away from its body. Essentially, you are creating an opportunity for the horse to move to the left by metaphorically “opening the door.”
To make the horse tilt its nose in the desired direction, slowly extend your left hand outward. It is crucial that whenever you request lateral flexion, your hand moves directly over your hip bone. The gentle request should always originate from the same direction. Modifying the height, downward motion, or speed of your hand movement will confuse the horse and affect what you are asking for. The horse’s response to lateral flexion will be more consistent if your hand movements remain consistent.
When you start moving your hand, removing the slack from the rein, and the horse obediently follows without resistance, you have successfully achieved full lateral flexibility. This is not accomplished by forcefully pulling, as that only leads to a confrontational situation.
Pieper sets a boundary regarding one aspect. He expresses his annoyance when observing a person mounted on a stationary horse, manipulating the horse’s nose towards their left knee and then their right knee repeatedly. This pattern results in the horse experiencing discomfort in its neck without gaining any knowledge. Our objective is for the horse to be pliable from left to right, but this ability must be linked to motion.
When prompted to demonstrate lateral flexion, the horse is expected to proceed forward, tilt his nose and flex his neck, and initiate the movement of his shoulders and ribcage, all while ensuring that his entire body moves in the same direction.
To achieve left flexion, start by walking the horse forward and applying slight pressure to the corners of his mouth. If the horse pulls, avoid pulling back in return. Instead, maintain forward motion and place your left elbow against your ribcage to keep your arm still. The horse may resist and pull against it, but continue to hold steady without pulling back. Eventually, the horse will gradually relax his chin. Once he relaxes his jaw, stops pulling, and softens, it’s time to release the reins completely. To do this, lower your hand and give him slack, signaling that this is the desired behavior. Following that, reward him by rubbing and petting him.
Pieper is a believer in positive rewards. To notify the horse of its correct action, release, pet, and rub it. Proceed to continue walking on the circle with a loose rein and then repeat the task.
To start with, as long as the horse has performed a few releases, everything is going according to plan. It is important to keep in mind that each time he pulls and then responds gently with his nose and neck, he receives a release as a reward. Repeat this process in both directions until you achieve a total of four or five releases in both the left and right directions.
“I will continue practicing this until the colt’s response becomes automatic regardless of its state of mind, whether it’s fresh, scared, or experiencing high emotions. When I take hold of the corner of its mouth, make slight contact, and get it to soften with its nose before releasing, it feels like it’s in its comfort zone,” Pieper explains. “The colt has learned that regardless of the situation, when it is released, everything will be alright. The duration can range from two weeks to two months; the specific timeframe is not important. This complete lateral flexion is the first fundamental step in working with the horse. Take all the time necessary for both yourself and the horse to master this.”
Simple Collection of a Spin
Pieper progresses to teaching collection only if a horse consistently demonstrates a lack of resistance when flexing on both sides and is consistently soft, responsive, and supple. Additionally, the horse willingly moves its nose and flexes without any hesitation or stiffness when prompted, even with subtle cues.
Collection is the result of a horse bearing more weight on its hind end compared to its front legs, causing the back and forehand to lift. This enables the horse to move with greater ease, elegance, and athleticism, as well as execute sudden changes in direction seamlessly.
Pieper explains that the process of collecting a horse involves initiating movement at a walk and establishing a physical barrier by positioning the hands with elbows against the ribcage, ensuring the upper body and arms remain motionless. This specific stance effectively eliminates the inclination to tug on the reins.
Pieper explains that she urges the horse onward by using her leg aids and keeping a steady contact with her hands. Whether the contact is heavy or light initially depends on the horse. According to Pieper, if she removes her legs from the horse, it will stop. The impulsion disappears, but the barrier remains with her hands.
While riding the horse towards the barrier, it is expected that he will likely attempt to push through it and rely on the bridle, and may even shake his head. In doing so, he is essentially exerting force against himself. Once he curves his neck and becomes slightly more flexible, provide a release by loosening the reins. Maintain this release for a duration of 15 to 20 seconds, and then repeat the same exercise until the horse comprehends that when he approaches the barrier, he will be rewarded with a release when he relaxes and yields.
The horse will achieve this goal quicker if you are more consistent in following these guidelines for collection.
Pieper explains that once the initial barrier response is fairly good, he keeps the horse in that position for longer periods, starting with two or three strides, then progressing to five and then ten strides. Once the horse meets the barrier created by his hands, Pieper then asks the horse to lift its back and shoulders and encourages it to reach up under its body with its hind feet a little more. This position prepares the horse to perform advanced maneuvers. Eventually, Pieper transitions to practicing this lesson at a trot and then a canter until the horse becomes soft and compliant without any resistance. If the horse starts to panic, Pieper advises giving it a release.
Pieper explains that while teaching the horse to be collected mentally, she is also physically developing the horse’s topline from his poll down through his neck, across the withers, across his back, down through the hips, to the hocks. By strengthening and developing these muscles, the horse will be able to easily assume a collected position as desired. Over time, being in a collected frame will become more comfortable for the horse compared to not being collected.
If the horse’s muscles do not develop slowly during this collection training, he may experience soreness.
Reining Horse Spin: Two-Tracks
After achieving a collected frame, start by releasing pressure from one leg and applying more pressure with the other leg in order to request the horse to perform two-track movements. In the case of a two-track movement towards the right, release the pressure from your right leg and apply pressure with your left leg.
Pieper describes how the horse moves in a straight line when walking or trotting. As I release one leg, I press with the other leg. This causes the hindquarters to move over, resulting in the horse being in a true two-track position. In this position, the horse’s head and neck point straight forward in the direction of travel, and his hindquarters move over so that two tracks are formed.
Pieper explains that he trains the horse to the extent that it becomes natural for the horse to perform the two-track movement without hesitation or worry. The horse understands that when one leg is released while the other is pressed a bit harder, it signifies the need for the hindquarters to move sideways.
According to Pieper, once the horse masters the three fundamentals, he can be trained to perform any task. Pieper states that these fundamentals do not demand any specific expertise nor do they require magical abilities. Rather, a comprehensive understanding of the fundamentals is essential. The horse’s learning pace improves as the rider becomes more skillful and remains consistent in implementing the fundamentals.
According to Pieper, many people, including professionals, often overlook the importance of thoroughly ingraining the basics in a horse’s mind. Consequently, they fail to give sufficient time for the horse to fully comprehend and execute commands in the desired manner. This confusion can be mitigated by effectively combining the three fundamentals, allowing the horse to learn a wide range of behaviors such as spinning, stopping, rolling back, changing leads, circling, and backing up.
Reining Horse Training for Longer Sliding Stops
In this discussion, we will delve into the topic of enhancing your horse’s sliding stop in reining.
Since we have a substantial amount of ground to cover, let us commence without delay.
There are multiple factors that impact the duration of a horse’s slide. These factors include:
- The horse’s natural ability and aptitude for stopping.
- The ground the horse is stopping on.
- The way the horse is shod.
- The horse’s rate of speed when going into the stop.
- The way the rider cues the horse for the stop (how the reins are worked, rider’s posture, etc.).
We would like to discuss each of these factors and elucidate their impact on your horse’s slide.
First and foremost, it is important to understand that nearly any horse is capable of doing a decent three foot slide on favorable terrain. However, it is quite different when a horse is able to execute a slide of 15 or 20 feet. If you aspire to achieve impressive stops, you will require a horse that possesses both the skill and willingness to stop.
If you want to determine if your horse has the ability to be a good stopper, you can assess their performance at the trot or slow lope. If getting them to stop well at these gaits was relatively effortless, then there is a high likelihood that advancing the stop won’t be much of a challenge. This is assuming that you introduce advancements gradually and your horse possesses the required strength to perform a powerful stop.
However, if you found it challenging to make him halt while at a trot or slow lope, it will be even more arduous to make him cease from a quicker pace.
To discuss the impact of the ground on a horse’s sliding ability, it is important to note that unfavorable ground conditions do not allow for a lengthy slide. In order to provide a thorough explanation, it is necessary to describe what constitutes suitable ground for sliding. Optimal sliding ground encompasses a firm and compacted base that offers a seamless surface, complemented by a layer of approximately two to three inches of loose, soft soil on the top.
The benefits of this type of ground are easily noticeable. The compacted base provides the horse with a stable surface for sliding. Without it, the horse’s hooves would sink too deeply into the ground, which would result in a shorter slide. Additionally, the base needs to be free of any unevenness. If there are any grooves or indentations, the horse’s hooves can become entangled in them.
It is crucial to maintain the fluffy and loose ground on top of the base in order to avoid shortening the slide or causing harm to the horse. This is because the top ground needs to effectively absorb the shock from the horse’s feet hitting the hard base, preventing any discomfort or soreness for the horse.
One more reason for desiring loose and fluffy ground is to enable the horse to effortlessly plow through it while sliding. If the top layer of soil is excessively deep or heavy, it proves challenging for the horse to achieve a considerable slide. In order to maintain a slide in deep, heavy ground, significant strength is required. Here’s a suggestion to enhance the quality of your sliding ground.
To make the dirt light and fluffy, add rice hulls or shavings to it.
The manner in which your horse’s hind feet are fitted with horseshoes will greatly impact their sliding ability. It is recommended to use sliding shoes, which are constructed from tempered, flat bar iron measuring one to one and a half inches in width. The broader the shoe, the less resistance or grip there is on the ground, resulting in a lengthier slide. However, it is important to note that there are limits, and we generally avoid using shoes wider than one inch.
To reduce traction, the front of the shoe is slightly elevated like a ski. This design prevents the toe from getting stuck in the ground during sliding. The back quarters of the shoe should be almost straight, enabling the dirt to flow out easily from the back.
The trailers need to reach the bulbs of the foot, but not go beyond that point. The angle of the hoof should be identical to the angle of the pastern. Additionally, it is essential for the hoof to make contact with the ground in a “flat and level” manner.
By increasing the surface area, the ski becomes more effective, while still ensuring the foot angle prevents the horse from stubbing its toe in the dirt, knuckling over, and getting injured.
If he trims his heels too high (at a steep angle), he will knuckle over during the stop and strain a tendon. Trimming the heel too low will result in him straining his hamstrings during the stop.
Horses with straight hind legs and feet pointing straight ahead have an advantage in sliding far. When they slide, their hind feet remain close together, creating a visually appealing set of long, straight “11”s. On the other hand, horses with hind feet pointing outward will struggle to slide a great distance.
Due to his toes pointing outward, his hind feet will gradually widen as he continues to slide. The more he slides, the further apart his feet spread until he is compelled to exit the slide in order to readjust his feet to a more comfortable position.
To create a “V” shape, adjust the position of the shoe on the horse’s foot so that it points forward instead of sideways. Additionally, slightly tilting the toe inward can also be beneficial.
The length of the slide is greatly determined by the speed at which your horse is running upon stopping. Put simply, if he isn’t running fast, he won’t slide a significant distance.
If you’re planning to run down the arena and request a sliding stop about ¾ of the way, it’s crucial to begin the run-down at a slow pace. Subsequently, steadily increase your speed as you approach the point where you will ask for the stop. Avoid the mistake of loping slowly until nearly reaching the end and suddenly accelerating into a run.
Gradually means to increase speed slightly with each stride. It is crucial to request the stop when the horse is accelerating. This is because his shoulders are more lifted and his hind legs extend further beneath him when he is gaining speed (essential factors for performing a sliding stop).
Ensure that you calculate the rate of acceleration in a manner that prevents him from going excessively fast when you reach the ¾ point. Otherwise, there is a possibility that he may disregard the stop and continue running. It is important to note that all horses have a speed at which they will make an effort to halt.
To find out the maximum speed at which he can run while still being able to stop, you may need to experiment. If he exceeds his optimal speed, he becomes solely focused on running and neglects to stop. It is also possible that he lacks the strength to maintain a stop beyond his ideal speed and therefore refuses to attempt it.
There is another point to consider. It is not advisable to frequently ask your horse to come to a sudden stop from a high speed as it can negatively affect his attitude. Additionally, it is important to remember to equip him with skid boots to safeguard his fetlocks.
Many riders tend to gain speed too rapidly and then begin to decrease their pace as they approach the end of the ride. They typically request the horse to stop while it is slowing down. As a consequence, the stop is usually unsatisfactory. Additionally, it is crucial for the horse to be moving in a straight line when the stop is requested.
It is important for his body to be in a straight line from his nose to his tail. If he is not aligned properly, he will lose balance. Additionally, he must maintain a straight path as he moves down the arena. If he starts zigzagging or trying to divert from the intended route during the run-down, his stop will be negatively affected.
The correct way to cue your horse to stop is crucial. To achieve a long slide, it is essential to use the reins correctly, maintain proper riding posture, and have good timing. However, it is important to clarify what you should avoid doing. Many people mistakenly believe that pulling the reins harder will result in a longer slide. In reality, it actually shortens the slide.
The reason for this is that the hard pull causes the horse to sink his feet deeply into the ground, preventing him from sliding far. Additionally, it forces his hind legs to spread out excessively. Most importantly, when a horse is being pulled on, it becomes difficult for him to maintain his balance during a long slide.
